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In Pursuit of Flavor, by Edna Lewis
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Edna Lewis, whose name has become synonymous with honest American food, simply and lovingly prepared, gives us the secrets of a lifetime in pursuit of flavor. With almost 200 delicious recipes, plus notes and special boxes on important ingredients (from black-eyed peas and Virginia hams to Peking ducks and oysters) and personally developed cooking techniques (making your own jelly bags, peeling chestnuts), Mrs. Lewis shows us how to get the best flavor from the foods we buy today in supermarkets and farmers’ markets.
Examples…
· She puts together lovely combinations of vegetables—tomatoes and cymling squash, green peas and Vidalia onions
· She seals in the subtle aromas of fish fillets or chicken breasts by baking them in parchment.
· She boils fresh corn in its husk for added flavor.
· She roasts browned bones and meats with just a little water to make a deep, rich, savory stock.
· She braises a game bird in a clay pot with aromatic vegetables to keep it succulent.
· She shows us how to use cut fresh herbs and when to add them.
· She shares her secret of mixing one’s own non-chemical-tasting baking powder.
· She persuades us to listen for signs of when a cake is done.
…and much more.
Following the seasons, Edna Lewis leads us through the chapters of this book—From the Gardens and Orchards, From the Farmyard, From the Lakes, Streams, and Oceans, For the Cupboard, From the Bread Oven and Griddle, and The Good Taste of Old-fashioned Desserts—and drawing on her childhood in Freetown, Virginia, a farming community founded by her grandfather and his friends after emancipation, she recreates some of the simple good dishes she grew up on. In addition to these “old friends” she has peppered the book with “new discoveries,” in that wonderful mingling of old and new that has made her food so sought-after at Fearrington House in North Carolina, Middleton Place in South Carolina, Uncle Sam’s in Manhattan, and other kitchens she has presided over.
Above all, every recipe—from Oyster Stew with Salsify to Damson Plum Pie—is illuminated with Edna Lewis’s remarkable cooking insights, which help the home cook to prepare a dish just as she has done it. And the whole book—with its charming illustrations—is flavored with the kind of personal warmth that makes it a joy to cook with Edna Lewis at your side.
- Sales Rank: #485710 in eBooks
- Published on: 2013-03-20
- Released on: 2013-03-20
- Format: Kindle eBook
From Publishers Weekly
Here Lewis forages into the past for the beloved foods of her Virginia childhood, cooked indoors with produce grown in the family garden"a pampered piece of soil outside the kitchen window." Good food, the author argues, must be "honestly cooked": made from produce in season that was raised organically, and prepared simply, with one's feet on the ground. Her repertoire includes distinctly Southern dishes, such as cooked greens and catfish stew, as well as many with a rural accent, requiring squirrels, she-crabs or rabbits. The down-home emphasis is occasionally varied by Nigerian and Ethiopian fare. However, Lewis's best recipes stay close to home (Vidalia onion pickles, Brunswick stew, potato cakes, peach cobber with nutmeg sauce). Admittedly fond of heavy cream, lard and other animal fats, she suggests low-fat alternatives for those who aren't. Though some of the author's deliciously old-fashioned assertions"good cooks always put up their own food"are impractical, anyone pining for food that tastes of farm and family will not be left hungry. BOMC Cooking and Crafts Club main selection.
Copyright 1988 Reed Business Information, Inc.
From Library Journal
Well-known caterer, chef, restaurant consultant, teacher, and cookbook author Lewis has developed her own style of cooking, based on Southern country dishes but influenced by her curiosity about all sorts of foods. Above all, a dish should taste good and be true to its ingredients. Many of her recipes are for old-fashioned, traditional favorites such as Chicken Soup with Dumplings; some are for unfairly forgotten dishes like Brunswick Stew. Others are African and Caribbean in origin; and manysuch as Eels and Scallopsare purely her own invention. For all collections. BOMC Main selection. JS
Copyright 1988 Reed Business Information, Inc.
Review
As the voice of one of the first communities of freed African Americans, Edna Lewis captures the elegance of palate of Virginia with both aplomb and grace. Her recipes reflect a genuine knowledge of, and passion for, the region; their subtleties of flavor are indicative of the sure hand of an accomplished cook. Simple directions, and deeply rooted ingredients and techniques power this important voice of the twentieth-century south, and hence, the country.
(John Martin Taylor, author of Hoppin' John's Lowcountry Cooking)Most helpful customer reviews
48 of 49 people found the following review helpful.
In Pursuit of Excellence
By Foster Corbin
It is safe to say that this cookbook is like no other you will find unless it is another by this giant of a chef/instructor. The book is filled with information: how to purchase fish and duck, how to freeze berries-- there are two pages of information on Virginia hams; and, yes, there are recipes too exotic for my simple tastes. For example, I doubt that I'll ever prepare rabbit pate or roast and stuff a suckling pig. Miss Lewis' whiskey cake recipe is from another world, however. The cake is made in a tube pan and has a cup of bourbon in it--and tastes as if it does. (Miss Lewis says that you should never cook with any alcohol you wouldn't drink.) The cake comes out of the oven a beautiful pale yellow color, almost like salt-fired pottery. Dense and moist, it slices like a thick piece of fine cheese. I didn't believe the author when she says that you can listen to the sounds of a cake to know when it's done. I can testify that she is quite right about that. This is a really fine cake. There are lots of other breads and desserts I want to try.
21 of 21 people found the following review helpful.
A cookbook that reads like an autobiography
By Elizabeth J. Brown
Edna Lewis passed away at the age of 89 in 2006, and it doesn't appear she took too many cooking secrets with her. Except for finding Greengage plums! As far as I can tell, only a mock version is available in the U.S. The original trees are long gone. And her Greengage Plum Ice Cream sounds **so** good.
Lewis wrote other books, but this one has the most appeal for me. I guess that's because of its style. This is one I read for pleasure, although I do not eat much meat or use it for seasoning, either, as another reader mentioned. I have not made many of the dishes in "In Pursuit of Flavor," but can recommend her recipe for mayonnaise. It never fails. The Summer Hot Vegetable dish is just wonderful. So is the Okra Whipped with Cornmeal. And she's right! You can tell a cake is done by listening to it.
Those little sidebars and chapter introductions are loaded with her opinions and advice. Even if you disagree with her you won't stay mad long; Ms. Lewis gave advice gently; she was a confident, experienced teacher and chef, and must have been a delightful dinner companion.
Edna Lewis is to be praised for attempting to restore natural flavors and goodness from the over-processed and over-priced foods we buy today. Simply because particular fruits and vegetables are available year 'round doesn't mean they are any good except in their regular growing seasons. She knew that, but the supermarkets don't (or don't care). We are far better off seeking out fishmongers, open air farmers markets, good old-fashioned butchers and baking our own bread. Unfortunately, most people don't have time to hunt and gather the the ingredients for a full meal, much less sit down and enjoy it.
Within the pages of this lovingly written and beautifully illustrated book, you'll find over 200 reasons why you should do some of your cooking the way Edna Lewis recommends, if only for special occasions.
19 of 20 people found the following review helpful.
Takes me back to my childhood
By K. Hemphill
If you want the tastes of rural Virginia back in the day, read this book. I spent a lot of time growing up in the nearby area between Richmond and Williamsburg (both my parents were born in the land where George met Martha and before that Pocohantas met John Smith) and this book took me back. Not just to the food that my grandmother and great grandmother prepared, such as oyster stew, boiled blue crab, ham (Smithfield) biscuits, succotash, navy bean soup, fatback, hot water cornbread, spoon bread, black eyed peas with stewed tomatoes, kale and turnip greens (never collards) fried spots and croakers (local fish) and deserts such as lemon chest pie, pound cake (always with a POUND of butter), and toll house cookies, but back in time to the stories they told about how food used to be. Even as late as the 1980's, it was common to have what was called a "garden" of at least a 1/2 or whole acre with more acreage planted in corn for the "animals" - though as local traveling butchers became a dying breed (which had in turn replaced neighbors getting together to help slaughter), the "animals" were mostly chicken and geese rather than the pigs and steers of my childhood while tractors replaced horse/pony and plow. As I helped shell lima beans, ate sweet white corn raw right out of the garden, ate a just picked tomato like it was an apple, or just sat in the side yard drinking ice water or iced tea out of a mason jar, my grandparents told stories of salting fish in barrels, corning beef, and making wild blackberry syrup for biscuits back in the day. And well into the 1980's my grandparents still canned and pickled vegetables, made wine out of peaches, apples, local grapes and even potatoes (!)(and knew where to buy moonshine...). My grandfather hunted till he was almost 70 - mostly deer, wild turkeys, and using dogs - possum and racoons (boys hunted squirrel and rabbit) and of course EVERYTHING was shared by the hunters to be eaten (wasn't told that it was squirrel in that stew until AFTER I'd eaten it!). He didn't like to fish but his brother/brother in laws did and of course they shared their fish as he did his game. While I certainly don't romanticize those days (it was seriously hard work and "gardening" and taking care of the animals was done before and after a day's "paying" work and both my grandmother and grandfather had jobs) the flavors of the just out of the garden vegetables; the off the tree sour cherries (whatever the birds didn't get) apples, and black walnuts; free range poultry; hours old eggs; and preservative-free home canned goods will always be remembered and make me wish I could eat that way again. And, not taking food for granted - canning/smoking/pickling what couldn't be eaten fresh and "eating everything from a pig but its squeal" (down to pig tails and souse/"hog's" head cheese) is something that has stayed with me (in homage to my grandparents thrift, I make broth out of my whole roasted chicken carcasses and make what I call refrigerator pasta and refrigerator soup to use up old veggies and bits of cooked meat). As I finish writing this, I see my grandfather as the sun was starting to set finally relaxing on a summer day's end, sitting in his chair in the side yard, waving to everyone he knew as they passed by on the two-lane blacktop "main" road, drinking a big mouth Mickey (beer) or maybe if it had been a particularly hard day a high- ball, while my grandmother called out to us "chillun" as we chased fireflies at dusk, whether we wanted a ham sandwich before it was time to go to bed.
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